There's a certain magic to Costa Rica – misty treetops, waterfalls, the distant call of howler monkeys. It invites adventure, but in the most effortless way. One moment you're trekking through jungle, the next you're floating in volcanic hot springs listening to the rain.

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Costa Rica was my idea. My 30th birthday was coming up, I needed an excuse to celebrate, and I've never needed much convincing to book a spontaneous trip. We found a $350 round-trip flight from Austin on Skyscanner, rented a car, and gave ourselves six days and a loose itinerary.

No rigid plans. Just a general direction and the understanding that things would go sideways at least once.

They did. It was perfect.

Day 1 – Liberia to La Fortuna

We flew into Liberia and made our first stop at La Choza de Laurel, a local spot just minutes from the airport. Arroz con frijoles, sweet fried plantains, maracuya-pineapple juices that tasted like sunshine in a glass. And a banana split – massive, indulgent, and completely unnecessary in the best way.

Then we drove toward La Fortuna – a stretch that starts as open highway and slowly becomes something else entirely. Hills rolling into misty mountains. Wind turbines on the horizon. Cows balancing on impossible green slopes. And then Lake Arenal, Costa Rica's largest lake, appearing out of nowhere like someone dropped it there.

We made one mistake: we started too late. By the time we reached the lake it was dark, the roads were unlit and winding, and oncoming headlights made the whole thing feel like a survival challenge. Arrive before sunset if you can. You'll want to see the lake in daylight.

By the time we arrived in La Fortuna around 10 p.m., the town was asleep. The only open spot was a so-called “Mexican” restaurant that barely deserved the title (a generous 2/10). But we ate, crashed, and prepared for the adventures ahead.

Day 2 – My 30th Birthday in the Rainforest

I turned 30 in Costa Rica. No complaints.

We started at Soda Los Rodriguez – a small family-run spot where they hand you wooden signs and blue paint to decorate while you wait for breakfast. Something about the warmth of it set exactly the right tone for the day.

Then La Fortuna Waterfall. Five hundred steps down through jungle, the sound of rushing water growing louder with every turn, until suddenly it's there – a 230-foot drop into a deep turquoise pool. We swam in the cool water while warm tropical rain fell around us. The air smelled of wet earth and something ancient.

The 500 steps back up are brutal. Worth every one.

In the afternoon we went canyoning with Maquique Adventures.

If you’ve never rappelled down a waterfall, let me tell you – it’s one of the most exhilarating things you’ll ever do. One minute, you're standing at the edge of a canyon, gripping a rope. The next, you're descending into the unknown, water rushing around you, adrenaline coursing through your veins.

Each descent got steeper, more challenging. The final drop was a 200-foot rappel straight down a waterfall.

The kind of thing that turns fear into something else entirely by the time you reach the bottom.

Afterward they took us to a small soda tucked away in the rainforest. I had the most incredible coffee of my life there. I don't know what they did differently. I've been chasing that cup ever since.

That night we celebrated at Don Rufino's – octopus, rigatoni, steak, cocktails, and the staff singing happy birthday in front of the whole restaurant. A perfect end to an unrepeatable day.

Day 3 – Rafting and Hot Springs

Whitewater rafting with Desafio Adventure Company on the Balsa River. Class II-III rapids – exciting without being terrifying – with sloths, exotic birds, and a monkey lounging in the trees overhead between stretches of calm water. Around $89 per person including transport and lunch. They photograph you throughout – split the cost with your group, about $30 total. Leave your belongings in the car.

That evening: hot springs. We'd planned on Tabacón but they were fully booked, so we ended up at Ecothermales – a smaller, more intimate experience with a strict cap on visitors. Warm volcanic water, jungle all around, small lanterns flickering along the pathways. We arrived early and had the pools to ourselves for the first half hour.

It turned out to be the best accident of the trip.

Book in advance. Go at dusk. Bring your own towel.

‍The Hammocks

On the way out of La Fortuna we made a stop we'd promised ourselves we'd keep. Earlier that day we'd found a small roadside shop run by an older couple who hand-wove hammocks from recycled materials. We hadn't had enough cash. We said we'd come back.

We did.

As we stood outside paying, I looked up. The sky had turned deep pink, the sun setting directly behind Arenal Volcano. We stood there for a moment – hammocks in hand, volcano in the distance, the smell of rain in the air – and didn't say anything.

Some moments don't need commentary.

Days 4-5 – The Pacific Coast

We left the jungle and headed west toward Guanacaste, stopping for breakfast at Conchal Hotel – about $10-15 per person, monkeys casually swinging in the trees above our table.

Then beach hopping. Here's the honest breakdown:

Playa Dantita was the standout. A short 2km hike leads to soft golden sand, calm water, and almost no one. No music, no vendors, just the tide. Stay here as long as you can.

‍Playa Danta – more lively, beachfront restaurants, nice but loses something after Dantita.

Playa Brasilito – more local, less polished, fishermen cleaning their catch on the shore.

Playa Conchal – crowded, vendors everywhere, and I got stung by something small in the water. If you do go, eat at Ander's Restaurant – genuinely delicious.

Playa Matapalo – fun drive to get there, skip it if you don't like crowds.

One evening in Playa Tamarindo we booked a gong bath massage with a woman who had trained under shamans – sound frequencies, incense, chanting. Not luxurious. Completely authentic. Followed by wandering through El Mercadito, a food market with everything from arepas to fresh juice, and watching the sun melt into the Pacific.

The only low point: arriving past midnight near Playa Flamingo with nothing open except an outdoor nightclub charging a cover. We talked our way in, got food to go, and ate it parked by the water watching moonlight on the docked boats.

Unplanned. One of the better moments of the trip.

What I'd Do Differently

More time in La Fortuna, less in Guanacaste. The beaches are nice. The rainforest is unforgettable. If I went back tomorrow I'd add Monteverde, Manuel Antonio, and the Caribbean coast.

Costa Rica does something to you. It wraps around you like jungle mist and lingers long after you've gone. You leave already planning the return.

— Ivonne

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